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Ping Shan “Poon Choi &  “Nine Big Dishes”

Recently there are some posters made by Government, which emphasizing the hazard of alcohol, and claiming that it harmed social stability. As I am just doing some research for the topic of “Social Responsibility”, it is really annoying to me about the anti-intellectual thinking of the Government.

 

Drinkers are aware to the fact that alcohol is not just a drink but the best media on earth to establish friendship! Recently I just made a few acquaintance in a wine dinner, who then invited me to Ping Shan to try the traditional “Poon Choi” and “Nine Big Dishes”, and learn a new culture as well.

 

What is the relationship between “Nine Big Dishes” and “Poon Choi”? As both are Hakka tradition, “Nine Big Dishes” can be considered the rich version of “Poon Choi”, where the former is only available in happy moment or Lantern Festival. In contrary , “Poon Choi” usually appeared in ritual ceremony of accompanied with a funeral. Of course, time has changed the custom and it is now common to blend these two together.

 

“Nine Big Dishes” encompasses eight dishes and one soup. The citrus peel duck soup is particularly fantastic, with the duck and citrus peel stewed for more than six hours. The alluring scent of citrus peel was so rich that it could linger for days. Other dishes such as “pineapple & ginger” suggested a new matchup for me. The ”Poon Choi” was placed in the middle of the nine dishes, with pigskin, squid, pork belly, white radish, ducks, chickens, oysters, seafood, but no beef, as the cattles were always helping people in the farm.

 

It is worthy to take a trip on the Western Railway, but be aware that there are not just one place offering “Poon Choi” in the village. There was a girl who come from outside, who pumped in William Tang Tat Chi and asked him for the way to eat “Poon Choi”. She then realized that Tang worked for another restaurant.

屏山盆菜+九大簋

最近在街上看到政府的宣傳廣告,內容是呼籲市民小心 酒精危害健康,甚至影響社會安全云云;適逢筆者也為 「Social Responsibility」一考題做功課,更覺政府機械式 的政治正確愈見反智。

 

飲酒的人都知道,酒不僅是飲品,而是世上連結友誼的最 佳媒介。最近在一品酒晚宴中,就跟幾位新相識頗投緣, 他們對飲食有要求也有「諗頭」。認識不久,他們就邀我 一 起 到 屏 山 ,為 的 是 一 嚐 傳 統 圍 村 風 味 的「 盆 菜 + 九 大 簋 」, 填飽五臟廟之餘,又學習到陌生的文化,何樂不為。

 

九大簋跟盆菜有甚麼關連嗎?九大簋原來是「富貴版」 盆菜,客家人的傳統,只有富貴人家在喜慶、元宵等才有 此排場,以大碗盛載九味菜式,並稱為「九子碟」;相反, 盆菜一般是祭祖或辦喪事時才會食盆菜。當然時移世易, 今天吃東西不用太講究儀式,「溝埋一齊」也無可厚非。

 

九大簋有八菜一湯,那道陳皮鴨湯尤為出色,以原隻鴨加 陳皮燉足六小時以上,那陳皮的幽雅甘香,餘韻可「繞樑 三日」。其他菜式如菠蘿子薑,對我來說也是嶄新配搭。 小盆菜則置於眾多菜式中間,內有枝竹、豬皮、魷魚、 五花腩、白蘿蔔等,豬、鴨、雞、蠔、海鮮,卻沒有牛, 因為牛是幫人耕田的。

特別的文化值得你搭程西鐵,不過屏山盆菜並非只有一 家,有位不諳就裡的女子,來到村口一家廚房外就巧遇鄧 達智,問他食盆菜的地方怎樣走,才知道是問錯對家。